The term “strawberry shortcake” can apply to any number of desserts featuring strawberries and cream, from layered cakes to Good Humor’s iconic ice cream bar. But a true shortcake is essentially a tender, lightly sweet scone with a “short,” crumbly texture. Shortcake isn’t as rich as buttery pound cake, nor as sweet as angel food cake, making it the perfect canvas for the season’s first candy-like strawberries. Plus, it’s faster and easier to make. My take on shortcake is just a little bit fancier, thanks to the addition of nutty whole wheat flour and a sprinkle of spiced sugar. It’s no fussier than the original—just tastier.
A great shortcake, while somewhat plain, should still taste delicious in its own right. I use whole wheat flour for its heartier, savory flavor and balance it out with a little extra sugar: a bit of brown sugar inside the dough, and a generous finishing sprinkle of cinnamon-and-clove-spiced sugar that bakes into a sparkly, crunchy topping. These warm spices may feel like unexpected players in a summer dessert, but they complement whole wheat’s nutty, earthy notes and balance the strawberries’ brightness.
When it comes to choosing a good whole wheat flour, I prefer to use whole wheat pastry flour. It’s finely milled from soft, white wheat, and it has a milder flavor and a less gritty texture than ordinary whole wheat flour, which is milled from hard red wheat. In a pinch, a fifty-fifty blend of (non-pastry) whole wheat flour and all-purpose flour works well too. Whole wheat treats have a reputation for being dry and crumbly, but the addition of plain yogurt keeps these shortcakes light and moist. I’ve found that runnier, European-style yogurts works best in this recipe, but Greek yogurt or skyr can simply be thinned out with a bit of water or milk.
The shortcake isn’t the only part of this dessert that gets a glow up. Roasting the strawberries in a mixture of sugar, lemon juice, and vanilla paste brings out previously hidden floral notes. It’s also a perfect way to use up strawberries that are bruised or overripe. After just a short time in the oven, the berries remain plump, and their juices cook down into a glistening, cotton-candy-scented syrup. Spoon the berries over warm shortcakes, and top it all off with a cloud of soft whipped cream. It’s strawberry shortcake as you know and love it—the same nostalgic tumble of berries and cream, just as simple to make—but, dare I say, even a little better than the original.