This beginner-level cycling route will take you past scenic parts of Shanghai – some of which overlap with parts of the former concession – and through the doors of six bakeries of repute.
5 of the best new restaurants in Shanghai for Chinese and international fare
5 of the best new restaurants in Shanghai for Chinese and international fare
Total distance: 5.55km (3.4 miles)
Total time: about 1½ hours (with a 10-minute stop per bakery)
1 Kaisiling
1888 Xinzha Road, Jing’an
Your tour begins near the Xinzha Road bus stop, served by at least six bus routes. Kaisiling’s branch is well positioned: Shanghai’s older residents are the heritage bakery’s biggest fans.
About a century old, the Kaisiling brand is a piece of Shanghai history, appearing in Ang Lee’s steamy 2007 film Lust, Caution and the pages of Eileen Chang’s 1950 novel Half a Lifelong Romance.
Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai’s TV hit, Blossoms Shanghai, sparks business boom
Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai’s TV hit, Blossoms Shanghai, sparks business boom
Kaisiling’s cream horn makes many Shanghai seniors misty-eyed, as does its fresh cream cake. During our visit, the matronly cashier laughs when I ask if the chestnut cakes are wanghong (internet famous) and says, “No, they are classic and there’s a difference.”
What to get: chestnut cakes, cream horns and fresh cream cakes
When to go: daily, 8.30am to 8.30pm
2 Basdban
546 Yuyuan Road, Jing’an
This space-age cafe, with its silver reflective surfaces, is overrun with phone-toting influencers, but its pastries are among the best I’ve had in Shanghai.
The espresso here is delicious fuel, and in addition to offering almond and oat milk options, Basdban also does a good hot chocolate – none of that cheap, powdered stuff diluted in hot water.
What to get: viennoiseries and sweet sandos
When to go: Monday to Thursday, 8.30am to 6pm; Friday to Sunday, 9am to 7pm
3 Ruby’s
375 Huashan Road, Jing’an
Another heritage bakery, Ruby’s stocks similar offerings to those found at Kaisiling, but where the latter has German roots, the former identifies as a Sino-British bakery, where “traditional England flavour blends with Shanghai tastes”.
Pile your tray high with palmiers, cream buns sporting toupees of spicy meat floss, at least one Napoleon, and Ruby’s famed chestnut cakes (perhaps compare them with those at Kaisiling to see which you prefer).
What to get: butterfly cookies, chestnut cakes, cream buns and cakes, and Napoleons
When to go: daily, 8.30am to 7.30pm
Cronut inventor’s Dang Wen Li bakery to shut after 4 years in Hong Kong
Cronut inventor’s Dang Wen Li bakery to shut after 4 years in Hong Kong
4 MBD
785-3 Huashan Road, Jing’an
An acronym for “magnificent bread destination”, MBD needs little marketing. Queues snake down the street on weekend mornings as habitués wait to buy ciabatta.
Studded with black beans and pine nuts, the ciabatta is good enough to eat on its own.
On the off chance that it is out of ciabatta, try one of the bakery’s Sinicised treats; the pepper and chocolate pastry or the umami seaweed bun.
What to get: ciabatta and other inventive pastries
When to go: daily except Tuesdays, 8.30am to 5.30pm
5 Luneurs
888 Huashan Road, Changning
Cultish casual fitness club Luneurs Tribe imbues a sense of esprit de corps among its members, who get together twice a week to sweat it out before rewarding themselves with pastries.
“In the beginning, we were just a group of colleagues and friends who started running every Wednesday night,” says Nick Ni, community manager at Luneurs. “Then some customers joined us. We’ve since tried cycling, wall climbing and hiking.
“We find it’s a really good way to connect, not just with our customers but also internally, within our company.”
Anyone and everyone can join, so contact the bakery if the social aspect appeals. If not, sample the pastries or unbelievably good ice cream. Better yet, do both by filling chouquettes with ice cream.
What to get: viennoiseries, patisseries and ice cream
When to go: daily, 8am to 10pm
6 TonTon
178 Yongkang Road, Xuhui
Thanks to its affiliation with popular wine bar Mavis and fine bistro Netta, TonTon had tongues wagging before it even opened its doors late last year, and it lived up to the hype.
TonTon is breaking the mould by putting huge and hearty offerings front and centre on its pastry counter in a city that typically prefers dainty delicacies. Think brick-like babkas (braided bread) spiced with cinnamon powder from Yunnan province, beef wheels the size of small frisbees and sandwiches that guarantee leftovers..
What to get: cinnamon rolls, doughnuts, pies and massive sandwiches
When to go: daily, 10am to 6.30pm