There are few places that upon arrival make you feel instantly relaxed, like being handed an ice cold drink on a muggy day. A place that immediately gets to work unravelling the sterile, stressful atmosphere of an airport; massaging away that clammy, crowded flight.
Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa, nestled in the charming Luberon Valley in southern France, is one such place. Just 45 minutes from Avignon and roughly an hour from Marseilles, Coquillade is an invitation for ultimate unwinding in a quintessential Provençal retreat, far away from the maddening crowds. Of course, teleporting would be more ideal to avoid the stresses and strains of cheap air travel; failing that, Coquillade Provence has its own heliport.
Why stay here?
This luxurious Relais & Châteaux-affiliated property is located on a glorious 100-acre estate studded with ancient vineyards. It has rightly been acknowledged as one of the world’s top hotels, gaining its fifth star in 2011. It sits on a restored 11th century hamlet and monastery founded by Cistercian monks of the Sénanque Abbey, and the hotel does an excellent job of feeling intimate and village-like, although it’s actually fairly large, with 63 spacious rooms and suites, a six-bedroom villa, three restaurants, two bars, a cycling centre, and an expansive luxury spa.
The site is dotted with poppies, wizened olive trees, rosemary and white roses, lavender and vines. The air in June is warm and scented with fragrant jasmine, and beyond the tall, statuesque cypress trees and two exquisite turquoise pools, blue hazy mountains on the horizon beckon toward the Spanish and Italian borders.
The rooms have been thoughtfully and meticulously designed, at once both simple, spacious and stripped back, but never scrimping on luxury. Featuring locally crafted stone walls and woodwork with neutral tones, the rooms blend in beautifully with their surroundings.
Eating and drinking
Dining at Coquillade is a thrice-daily event, with seasonal produce from the estate garden and from local producers dotting every menu. The buffet breakfast is a sumptuous feast, featuring all manner of local cheeses, meats, decadent breads and pastries made fresh every day, honey from the hotel’s six beehives, and a chef whipping up fluffy omelettes along with the other hot food.
The Italian-inspired restaurant, Cipressa, is perfect for a spot of casual yet glamorous al fresco dining beside the Hockney-esque hues of the swimming pool, with freshly made plump, sumptuous pizzas, wickedly indulgent pastas, and flowing wine from the hotel’s Aureto vineyard. Particular standouts were the generously portioned truffle rigatoni, the pizza of the day featuring bresaola and fresh herbs, and an affogato to rule all affogatos.
Dining at Les Vignes, the restaurant tucked away amid the vines of the rolling vineyard, is a truly memorable evening experience. We feasted on fabulous swordfish ceviche, pate, gorgeously fat, local pork ribs accompanied by fine green beans and salty, crispy fries, and a marvellous chocolate concoction to finish, all while gazing out over the vines as the sun went down. Service was impeccable, and wine from the hotel’s vineyard was perfectly matched to the food. Everything feels so effortlessly relaxed here.
Things to do
Outside the hotel’s walls, if you can tear yourself away from a pool-side cocktail or two, there are excellent cycling routes that take in Pont Julien – a Roman stone arch bridge over the Calavon river dating from the third century BC – the majestic village of Gordes, windmills, and the charming, sleepy village of Lacoste. You can see Lacoste perched on the hillside with its castle once belonging to the de Sade family, and later fashion designer Pierre Cardin.
There are rolling fields of cherry and oak trees, precipitous drops and gentle climbs rewarded with stunning views. The countryside is really particularly beautiful, with fields of goats guarded by big, sleepy white fluffy dogs, locals sipping coffee in the morning sunshine and cheerful children forming a merry crocodile on their way to school. It’s ripe territory for a spot of exploring.
The spa
Back at the hotel, the state-of-the-art spa is exceptional, and all the more pleasing for its outdoor rest area and natural light, ensuring it never feels too dark and dingy (in case the Marquis de Sade is still lurking in the back of your mind).
It’s certainly been comprehensively designed, with the 21,527 sq ft area boasting plunge pools, a large sauna and steam room, a sensory shower, Kneipp pools, ice fountain, heated indoor pool, outdoor Jacuzzis, a relaxation room, herbal tearoom and weight and cardio training room. The spa has been recognised multiple times by the World Luxury Spa Awards, and rightly so.
The verdict
This hotel is almost impossible to fault, with its relaxed easy-going atmosphere and absolute commitment to tranquil, understated luxury – even for the grumpiest of guests frazzled by the perils of cheap flights.
Felicity Capon was a guest of Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa. Rates start from €750 per room, per night and include a welcome gift, a selection of the minibar, breakfast, access to the spa and fitness classes, and access to the Aureto Winery throughout the stay. Hameau Le Perrotet, 84400 Gargas, France; coquillade.fr
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