Hanako Maeda briefly studied ballet as a child, but it’s something she understands intimately having designed costumes for The New York City Ballet in 2015. Spring saw her muse in the creative art again, but this time focused on the athleticism it takes to make the dancing seem effortless. “I wanted to show the dichotomy between something that feels delicate and romantic versus something that feels sporty and athletic, ” she said backstage before her show.
The theme was addressed both through silhouette and fabrication — knits with woven fabrics, organza with cottons, and tulle with stretch suiting. Her work is full of mixed-media moments, something she does well. Corsetry was used throughout, paired with knit technical leggings with bands of fabric wrapped around the calf. Suiting had flourishes of tulle cascading down arms of blazers, while dresses were layers of fabrics and draping in conversation together on the body. Many were ethereal, youthful and full of a restrained joy, like ballet itself; they would be knock out options on a red carpet or spring gala, or just for hanging out in the East Village.
Maeda grounded it all with a rock ‘n’ roll edge, with Doc Marten gladiator sandals with ballet bows, pearl and silver ear cuffs and lip rings and a few ruffled gloves. “I wanted to keep that edge,” she said, bringing in a bit of her punk vibes from last season.
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