Arthur Arbesser RTW Spring 2024 – WWD

Arthur Arbesser’s spring collection was a self-gift. The designer and his team of five longtime collaborators have been feeling some sort of fashion fatigue lately, he confessed, and sought to carve out a space to silence the noise of current fashion trends and focus on the creative process itself.

“I was looking to find a reason reminding me why I love this job….I always want to find joy in it,” he said. That meant letting his inner child take over and indulge in the arty crafty, mood-boosting and inventive fashion he’s known for.

For spring, unfussy silhouettes — shift dresses, elongated shirts, occasionally with a ruffle, sundresses and drawstring-collared blouses, to name a few — were the canvas for joyful and arty prints and patterns, from the tie-dyed and striped midi skirt and shirt ensemble to the painterly motifs, cloud-like spots of color and naïf florals, appearing on full skirts and spaghetti dresses.

Arbesser’s pretty and thoughtful pastiche established a dialogue with the presentation space, Spazio Meta, a warehouse on the outskirts of Milan filled with furniture, objects and materials used for fashion show sets, design installations and window display. Look book images shot there featuring office chairs, purple panels, bookcases and lacquer red bed frames added to the collection’s off-kilter touch.

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