10 years after Typhoon Haiyan, Philippines’ Tacloban city rises from the ruins

“I am now able to laugh again, but I will never forget them,” said Ando, 57, who survived because she heeded official warnings to go inland before the storm hit.

Ten years on, the family’s mass grave is one of the few visible reminders of the devastation in Tacloban, the capital of Leyte province.

Tacloban bore the brunt of Haiyan’s fury and had to be rebuilt almost from scratch.

Now, it looks like any other Filipino city, with traffic-clogged streets and bustling restaurants.

An 18km (11-mile) seawall has been built along the coast to protect it against future storm surges.

Mayor Alfred Romualdez points to resettlement areas for survivors of Super Typhoon Haiyan, which hit the country in 2013, from the site of a proposed memorial park remembering the disaster on the outskirts of Tacloban city, Leyte province, on October 12. Photo: AFP

“I think we have fully recovered,” Mayor Alfred Romualdez said during a recent visit to the city of around 280,000 people.

As the Philippines prepares to commemorate the 10th anniversary of Haiyan, Romualdez said survivors had “moved on” from the disaster.

“But I don’t think they’ll ever forget,” he said.

Scientists have long warned that storms are becoming more powerful as the world becomes warmer because of human-driven climate change.

The Philippines, which typically endures more than 20 major storms a year, has plenty of experience dealing with disasters.

But that did not prepare the country for one of the strongest typhoons on record.

This combination image of two photographs shows people walking past toppled power lines and debris along a street in Tacloban city, Leyte province on November 10, 2013 (top) after Super Typhoon Haiyan made landfall, and a view of the same street ten years later on October 9, 2023 (bottom). Photo: AFP

Haiyan unleashed winds of up to 315km an hour that flattened towns and cities across a 600km stretch of central islands.

Coastal houses and buildings thought safe enough to be used as evacuation centres on Leyte and Samar islands were swamped by storm surges up to five metres high.

About 6,300 people were killed and a decade later more than a thousand are still missing.

Over 4 million people were left homeless.

“I feel in terms of the national government, in terms of the local government, there were a lot of lessons learned,” Romualdez said. “But I would say that there are still many, many more lessons we still have to learn and we have to institutionalise.”

A fisherman stands beside boats by the waterfront where houses once stood before Super Typhoon Haiyan struck in 2013, in Tacloban city, Leyte province. Photo: AFP

Since Haiyan, the country has invested in early warning systems, mass text messaging technology and public apps to identify potential dangerous areas, disaster and weather officials said.

Hazard maps used by government agencies are also updated regularly, weather alerts are issued earlier and in local languages, and pre-emptive evacuations are standard practice.

“The mindset has changed,” said Edgar Posadas, a director at the Office of Civil Defence in Manila.

Posadas said local governments now used their own funds, food packs and rescue personnel instead of relying on the national government, enabling them to respond to disasters more quickly.

Advocates gather as they begin their 30-day solidarity walk from Manila to Tacloban, at Bonifacio Shrine in Manila on October 8, to pay tribute to the more than 6,000 lives lost ahead of the 10th year anniversary of Typhoon Haiyan’s historic landfall in the Philippines. Photo: AFP

The changes have been credited for lowering death tolls since Haiyan.

In December 2021, Super Typhoon Rai damaged or destroyed nearly twice as many houses as Haiyan, but the death toll was less than 500, UN and government data show.

“Experience really is the best teacher,” weather services chief Juanito Galang said.

Many of the people killed in Tacloban were living near the sea in flimsy shacks made of wood and corrugated iron sheets.

The government has since demolished many of the slum areas and moved around 14,000 families to relocation sites out of reach of storm surges.

While the concrete houses are safer than the shanties, some of the sites still lack running water.

Resettlement housing areas as seen from the site of a proposed memorial park to remember the victims of Super Typhoon Haiyan that struck in 2013, on the outskirts of Tacloban city, Leyte province. Photo: AFP

Rosie Boaquena, 63, moved to one 13km from downtown Tacloban, but two of her sons chose to stay in a one-room shack by the sea to be closer to their jobs.

“One of my sons sells fish, so he would need to leave [the relocation site] at midnight to pick up the fish, but there is no nighttime public transport,” she said.

Ando was also allocated a house in a hilly development, but she has not spent a single night there.

Instead, she rebuilt her house on the same plot of land near the sea where she has lived all her life and has many memories.

Laundry on a clothes line over an empty lot beside the bow of a cargo ship (background), preserved as a memorial for the village dead from Super Typhoon Haiyan, in Tacloban city’s Anibong district, Leyte province. Photo: AFP

On Wednesday, Ando will mark the anniversary of Haiyan like she does every year, gathering family and neighbours near the mass grave to pray.

Six of her relatives are still missing, presumed dead, and one of her sons was left permanently disabled from the storm.

“We didn’t know what a storm surge was back then,” she said. “Now, whenever there’s a typhoon, we immediately evacuate.”

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