Of the half million annual visitors to the Edinburgh International Festival (running from 4-28 August this year), the vast majority don’t leave the city. Which is understandable given the cultural smörgåsbord on offer, and that it takes place in (arguably) the UK’s most attractive city. But it’s also a wasted opportunity given that this is the capital of one of the most beautiful countries in the world, with a wealth of stunning scenery on its doorstep.
The really epic stuff is up in the Highlands, several hours away, but you can get a taste of Scotland’s unique wild beauty on a day trip from Edinburgh. Here are three suggestions easily reached by public transport that take in a hill walk, amazing wildlife and a famous loch.
Beaches and birdlife: the North Berwick coast
Fastest train from Edinburgh to North Berwick: 24 minutes
The scenic southern shores of the Firth of Forth in East Lothian make for a perfect day at the coast. North Berwick, which a became popular resort in the 19th century, is a quintessential Scottish seaside town, with two vast golden sandy beaches to play on, rock pools to explore and great seafood and fish and chips – try the Lobster Shack in the harbour.
Three miles and a bumpy boat ride from North Berwick is Bass Rock, which David Attenborough has called “one of the wildlife wonders of the world”. In summer, this extinct volcano is home to up to 150,000 nesting gannets, as well as guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, puffins and numerous gulls.
Almost every square foot of the vertiginous rock, as well as the air around it, is thick with gannets. The sight, sound and stench of these huge, noisy birds as they divebomb into the sea for fish is an almost overwhelming assault on the senses. The boat ride also takes in a smaller island populated by thousands of puffins – the kids on board our boat preferred these cute, slightly comedic birds to the manic gannets.
Back on dry land, the interactive Scottish Seabird Centre, built at the turn of the millennium as an observation point for Bass Rock, is an impressively hands-on visitor centre, with zoom-in cameras and telescopes giving closeup views of the birds.
A short bus ride east from North Berwick is the semi-ruined Tantallon Castle (open but some access restrictions currently in place), a red sandstone fortress built in the 14th century high on a cliff edge. We arrived early and for an hour were the only visitors taking in the fine views out to the Firth of Forth and the castle’s bloody history (it was besieged several times, the last being by Oliver Cromwell’s army).
If you play golf, East Lothian is home to some of the world’s best links courses, including North Berwick’s West Links, Muirfield and Gullane. Booking essential at all courses.
History and hiking: Stirling and Dumyat hill
Fastest train from Edinburgh: 40 minutes to Stirling (or 52 minutes to Bridge of Allan)
Northern Scotland’s heavenly mountain-walking country is out of range for a day trip, but you can get a wee taste of the Highlands around Stirling, which sits between the Lowlands and the Highlands. Although it is only 418 metres high, Dumyat (Dùn Mhèad in Gaelic) on the western edge of the Ochil Hills, is a handsome and distinctive hill that offers lovely views for relatively little effort.
There is a good path to the summit which avoids the steep southern slopes, so on a good day it is ideal for beginners and families (although in this part of the world it is always a good idea to wear walking shoes and take wet weather gear). The route is dotted with sheepfolds and offers views of the other Ochils, Fife, Stirling Castle, the Wallace Monument (also worth a visit) and bigger hills beyond.
From Stirling station, take a taxi to Pedreich forest car park for the easier and more popular route up to the two summits of Dumyat hill and Castle Law (where there are remains of an ancient hill fort that gave Dumyat its name). For the steeper, shorter and less busy route go to Blairlogie Orchard car park. (And to avoid taking a taxi to the start, stay on the train to Bridge of Allan station, though this will add two miles walking each way).
Stirling is also worth exploring. The charming medieval town is full of cobbled streets and historic buildings, and its magnificent Renaissance architecture castle rivals Edinburgh’s – and has fewer visitors. And kids will love the gruesome digitally recreated events at the Battle of Bannockburn Experience, a decisive moment in Scottish history. The immersive 3D technology gives young Robert the Bruces the chance to command a virtual battlefield and send medieval warriors, archers and knights into battle to defeat the English invaders.
Full details of the Dunyat walk at walkhighlands.co.uk
City and cycling: Glasgow and Loch Lomond
Fastest train from Edinburgh to Glasgow Queen Street: 44 minutes. From Balloch back to Glasgow: 53 minutes
Scotland’s two great, but very different cities are less than an hour apart by train, and Loch Lomond is a flat and easy cycle ride from Glasgow, though perhaps best done on an ebike as this is a long day out. I rented one in Edinburgh (cyclescotland.co.uk, £50 a day) and took it on the train to Glasgow. To find the cycle path to Loch Lomond, come out of either Queen Street or Glasgow Central station and drop down to the River Clyde, a few minutes south, and then simply head west and keep going. The cycle trail is excellently signposted (although the distances indicated are less accurate) and follows the Clyde, the Forth and Clyde Canal through post-industrial Glasgow before reaching the lovely scenery of the Vale of Leven.
The small town of Balloch is the gateway to the gorgeous shores of Loch Lomond, Scotland’s largest lake, and the Highlands. Here, I took a two-hour boat trip to small islands which sit on the Highland Boundary Fault, which divides the Highlands from the Lowlands. Sitting on the loch looking up at the vast rugged landscape, I’d found what I was looking for: “This is proper Scotland,” I thought.
You could spend a couple of days exploring Glasgow but a highlight this month is the inaugural UCI Cycling world championships taking place in the city and across Scotland from 3-13 August. This landmark event brings together various disciplines (track, BMX, road and mountain biking) together for the first time and promises to be the world’s biggest-ever cycling event. Highlights for spectators include racing in the velodome in Glasgow’s and BMX in Glentress Forest, 25 miles south of Edinburgh. The men’s elite road race begins in Edinburgh on Sunday 6 August, starting in the shadow of Arthur’s Seat before heading up the Royal Mile to the Old Town and Edinburgh Castle.