There was no need to refresh one’s memory online about Shuting Qiu’s last collection, since many guests at her spring show came dressed in head-to-toe fall looks, some even testing out the runway at her outdoor venue, a cloister.
In lieu of faux fur, for spring Qiu went for fluffy tulle, whorled into rosettes and scattered on gauzy dresses and capelets, or encircling ankles on hand-painted Ugg boots.
Qiu views every surface as a canvas for prints, color and embellishment — even if the base fabrics are fancy jacquards, or floral-printed tulle.
This was a beach-y collection, complete with bikinis, floppy sun hats and gauzy slipdresses.
The Shanghai-based, Antwerp-trained designer had visited Tenerife, one of the Canary Islands, and decided to pay homage to the sea life — mainly starfish and jellyfish, the latter’s tentacles represented by long beaded fringe dangling here and there.
Tropical leaves and flowers appeared on second-skin catsuits, ladylike jackets and granny-esque sweaters. Embellished jeans bearing the Hnst label from Belgium represented a more approachable entree into Qiu’s fashion universe, sequins glinting at the base of the flaring pantlegs.
In a season of quiet luxury and sleek, conservative chic, consider Qiu an irrepressible outlier.
Anne Chapelle, the Belgian entrepreneur who used to back the Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann fashion business, was spotted at the show and told WWD she’s mentoring Qiu.
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