Surging air fryer popularity leads Nestlé, other CPG giants to rethink food

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For nearly half a century, the venerable Hot Pocket has been synonymous with the metallic crisping sleeve used to heat the cheese, meat and vegetable-filled turnover in a microwave. But the rapid growth in popularity of the air fryer has changed how many consumers warm the popular snack, leading brand owner Nestlé to ditch the sleeve altogether.

“Consumers are telling us, ‘You know, once I cooked the Hot Pocket in the air fryer, I’ll never go back. It’s just so much better and so much crispier,’ ” said Adam Graves, president of Nestlé U.S.’s pizza and snacking division. “The future is all about the air fryer. It’s really just a generational shift that you’re going to see.”

The air fryer has rapidly become a force in the food industry, upending what products consumers buy and how they prepare them.

Roughly two-thirds of homes today have at least one air fryer, according to data analytics firm Circana, up sharply from 2021. Two years ago, the appliance became the fourth most popular cooking device behind the stove top, microwave and oven. More people have an air fryer today in their kitchen than a coffee maker, Nestlé noted.

The lasting popularity of the device has not gone unnoticed by food manufacturers. 

Nestlé, Conagra Brands, Campbell Soup and Perdue Farms are among the companies developing a dizzying array of products made in or for an air fryer. An even larger number of products lining store shelves now contain instructions on preparing them using one. In some packages, microwave or oven instructions have been removed in favor of those for an air fryer.


“The future is all about the air fryer. It’s really just a generational shift that you’re going to see.”

Adam Graves

President, Nestle U.S.’s pizza and snacking division.


Graves said Nestlé first removed the crisping sleeve in 2022 from its larger-sized Hot Pockets after it observed people enjoyed the crispier crust that resulted from an air fryer. It recently removed the sleeve from its Hot Pockets breakfast lineup and is on track to remove it from the rest of the brand by the end of this year.

Other products, such as Stouffer’s Mac & Cheese bites and DiGiorno personal-size pizzas, suggest on the front of the packaging that people prepare the offering in an air fryer.  

Households are still using the microwave with greater frequency, but he noted that the highest level of air fryer use is among teens and college kids. Many university students have the device in their dorm rooms instead of a microwave.

Younger consumers are “what’s going to drive the growth of air fryers and our business going forward,” Graves said.

An Airfryer french fries maker stands on display at the Philips stand at the IFA 2013 consumer electronics trade fair.

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Sean Gallup via Getty Images

 

Wait and see attitude

Fred van de Wiel, an inventor in the Netherlands, is credited with starting work on the modern-day air fryer in 2005 when he was looking for a healthier way to prepare a French fry without drying it out. 

The air fryer didn’t take off immediately, with household penetration hovering for years in the single digits. Demand soared during the COVID-19 pandemic as consumers spent more time preparing meals at home.

Mike Kostyo, a vice president at consulting firm Menu Matters, has worked with several food manufacturers on air fryers. He said many businesses were initially hesitant to invest meaningful time and money in developing products for the gadget.

Kostyo noted there was concern that its popularity could plunge as consumers returned to pre-COVID 19 routines where they ate out more frequently, or if broader interest in the device waned as people moved on to the next trendy machine. 

The kitchen is littered with devices such as electric pressure cookers and at-home sous vide machines that have had their moment as the next “it” appliance, only to see them eventually get stashed in a drawer or closet.

The early days of the air fryer were riddled with challenges. Food packaging often lacked instructions, leaving consumers to guess how long to prepare their items and at what temperature. This led to overcooked or undercooked items. In addition, many foods were not prepared or packaged in a way conducive to an air fryer.

Shortly before the pandemic, Bob Nolan, senior vice president of demand science at Conagra Brands, recalls a large national retailer carrying both food and appliances telling him that their company sold a lot of air fryers but that consumers were unsure what to do with the device once they brought it home.

The retailer pleaded with the Birds Eye vegetable and Banquet frozen meals manufacturer to develop more products that could be prepared in an air fryer.

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